In Russia, they used to believe that the French did not eat buckwheat but fed it to the frogs. A rumor circulated in the early 20th, during the “Dictatorship of Military Communism” (Karl Marx’ concept implemented by Lenin) that one day Konstantin Stanislavsky, the renown theater director, received a parcel from Paris delivered by a stranger. Those were dangerous times when there was virtually no communication with anyone outside of Russia. There was also virtually no food – the population was starving. Thus, when Stanislavsky opened the anonymous package and found a bag of buckwheat with no note of explanation, it was logically assumed that his grandmother, the French actress Marie Varlet, whom he had never met, suddenly got compassionate regarding her abandoned family’s plight and sent them some food. Buckwheat was cooked the traditional Russian way, as kasha, and instantly devoured.
A few days later, a letter from Paris caught up with the parcel. In it, a notary notified the family that M-me Varlet had passed away, and, according to her will and testament, was cremated, the ashes to be buried next to her Russian husband in Moscow. Since there was no way to transport the ashes in their natural condition, the distinguished maitre mixed them into buckwheat, a grain not fit for human consumption, which should be delivered to the family shortly. Silent scene. Curtain.
All of this is total hogwash, of course, since buckwheat was introduced to France from the East around 12th century, way before it made its way to Russia. It became popular in Brittany where they called it sarrasin or ble noir (black wheat), ground it into flour, like wheat, and made crepes. Yes, the first crepes were made of buckwheat and called galettes. Wheat crepes that we know today have not appeared until the beginning of the 20th century. Incidentally, the word itself comes from Latin crispa, which doesn’t mean crisp – it means curled, so the first crepes were actually curled, or rolled. Traditionally, the wheat flour crepes are sweet, and the buckwheat galettes are savory (Sources: http://www.moniquescrepes.com/a-brief-history-of-crepes/, http://www.excusemyfrench.co.nz/a-little-crepe-history/).
I love using buckwheat flour. My grandmother used to make retchene latkes (buckwheat pancakes) for Chanukkah – those are coming up in a few months together with the rest of my Chanukkah recipes. Buckwheat is gluten free and has a plethora of nutrients. It also has a pleasant nutty taste, so who says it must necessarily be savory? I want to make it sweet, and I will, with lots of blueberries and raw organic honey. You can use agave to make it vegan. To enhance the nutty flavor, there is coconut milk. I used a real egg, but you can substitute to make it vegan. I also added just a little olive oil and a pinch of baking powder.
Whisk the egg and oil, add coconut milk and honey, and whisk it all together to aerate it. When you see bubbles, add this mixture to buckwheat flour, and mix gently but thoroughly. Don’t forget the baking powder.
Now, just throw those beautiful plump and juicy blueberries in and mix them with the rest of it. No need to squash them – they’ll pop on their own once you start frying.
Do you see all this liquid? That’s not grease, Beautiful People, as my frying pan was barely misted with oil, as usual. That’s delicious blueberry juice! So you get them nicely brown on both sides and remove them straight to a plate so as not to lose any of that precious juice.
They’ll never be golden brown – they are, after all, sarrasins, or Saracens, dark by definition. They are rather purplish brown, even though I dusted them with powdered xylitol, and with chocolate syrup, they look even darker, yet become even more delicious!
INGREDIENTS
- 1 cup buckwheat flour
- 1 cup coconut milk
- 1 cup fresh blueberries (if using frozen blueberries, reduced coconut milk)
- 1/3 honey or agave
- 1 egg or substitute
- 1 tablespoon olive oil
- 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
PROCEDURE
- Mix buckwheat flour with baking powder, put aside.
- Whisk egg with oil, add coconut milk and honey, whisk together until aerated well.
- Add wet ingredients to dry, mix thoroughly. Gently mix blueberries in.
- Preheat shallow frying pan, lightly mist with oil. Fry pancakes on both sides until brown. Blueberries will burst creating a caramel-like sauce.
- Plate with sauce, dust with powdered sugar or xylitol. Serve with chocolate syrup, honey, or agave.
Enjoy!
Brilliant. Both the story and the recipe are going to be used. I might even change my Will and ask to be disposed of in a way similar to Marie Varlet (I don’t care about the truth, I like the story). I only ever cook savoury dishes with buckwheat (I think it’s simple, fast and delicious) but I’ll try this one-I have buckwheat flour, which intimidates me, to be honest.
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Thank you. I actually hesitated before writing up this story – perhaps some people find black humor distasteful. But then, even though I never want to offend anyone, I am what I am, I have never idolized Stanislavsky, and I thought the story was funny in a macabre way. And again, for 75 years, everything that happened in that country was macabre!
P.S. I find it hard to believe that anything intimidates you. Put it in a mixing bowl and tell it to behave!
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If you feel a little uncomfortable with using buckwheat flour, try using half wheat (or rice if you are gluten-free) and half buckwheat to start with. Buckwheat flour adds a nice flavor to gluten-free bread. Enjoy!
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I love reading the stories that come with each recipe. I’m also a huge fan of buckwheat, but I’d like mine to stay unadulterated.
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I like my husband to stay “unadulterated” – as to food, I am an avid experimenter.
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[ Smiles ] Buckwheat is quite healthy!
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Even with grandma’s ashes mixed in…
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I made buckwheat pancakes and they didn’t go over with my family. I love that you added blueberries to the batter. I bet it makes them naturally sweeter. With your recipe, I think I’ll give buckwheat another try.
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Go for it! And don’t forget honey or agave – that’s what really makes the difference.
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Perfect. Honey would be amazing with the blueberries.
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That is true:) In France they do not eat buckwheat, but adore galettes. Several months ago I found a buckwheat in a Polish supermarket and cooked it for my French friends, most of them liked it.
By the way, they call pancakes “blini” 😊
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I know; everybody calls them “blini.” Pancake was an American linguistic twist.
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Wow! Looking delicious!
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Reblogged this on koolkosherkitchen and commented:
It looks like I am not done with latkes yet here is another variety!
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These pancakes are also for trying, Dolly 😀
In Denmark, where I come from, we used to make big pancakes, like a big pan, but skinny pancakes, filled them with the wishes, marmalade, syrup, sugar, fruit or ice cream and rolled them, so they could be enjoyed eating with fork and knife.
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You are describing crepes – we make them too. I love them! We call them “blintzes.”
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Okay, I didn’t know the correct name in English, but these are used from old times in Denmark.
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What are they called in Danish?
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Pandekager, directly translated to English, pancakes.
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Thank you, dear Irene! Food history and etymology is fascinating to me.
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You are so welcome, Dolly 🙂
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🙂
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Oh.My.Gracious! No words! Well, at least they weren’t hungry anymore!
Shudder
Your latkes look so yummy!!
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Thank you, Melinda! I know the story is not very appetizing, but then it’s only a story based on a rumor. However, in those times… You never know…
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If I was hungry……
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LOL
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Loved the story! I also took the liberty of giving advice to “Lilyandardbeg”
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Thank you, dear Joelle, you are so kind!
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Blé de sarrasin is always in my kitchen. I love it. As I loved your story even if it is hogwash it had me hooting with laughter. Galettes are wonderful (my Breton friend Philippe makes the best I have ever tasted) but I tend to make the Cantalien speciality Bourriol which reminds me that I should make some and attempt to be disciplined enough to photograph them and make a post. But these blueberry babies … these, dear Dolly take mere sarrasin to a new level …. believe me when I say I will be making these and not even remotely ashamed to scoff the lot (well maybe give a few to the children upstairs but just a few!)
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Pretty please, do make them and post them! I want to share them with my readers, and I definitely want to see what’s different between Cantalien buckwheat crepes and my retchene latkes!
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I promise then. I have two Cantalien dishes that I want to share so maybe I will do a mini series on the food of the region. Thank you for your enthusiasm – it is entirely infectious!
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Are you calling me a decease? Whatever you do, I ask permission in advance to share it with my readers!
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Noooooo …. and yes, of course you may 🙂
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Infectious = contagious. According to the US Center for Decease Control, contagious deceases could start an epidemics! Is that what you think I am doing – infecting people with my craziness to start an epidemics of laughter?
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You are at the very least an epidemic and possibly an endemic my friend!!
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LOL 😻
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P.S. I forgot to mention that it was Bulgakov who started this rumor circulating in Moscow, to pay Stanislavsky back for suffering and humiliation, as reflected in The Theatrical Novel.
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No. Way. How brilliant!! That has fully made my week – thank you Dolly!!!
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Shows you where my head is! To forget to mention the source, and such an important one!
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I lost my head too many years ago – hence the title of my blog 😉
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Good for you – easier and more fun! Just think of the weight of this incredible brain inside your cranium! The question I have is, where do you keep it? The brain, that is? 😻
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😂😂😂
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😻
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Spooky story
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Are you suggesting I should’ve posted it on Halloween? It’s only a rumour, but a wide-spread one. There were, however, real incidents of cannibalism during and after both wars, and also in Ukraine in the 30’s during instituted by Stalin and implemented by Khrushchev hunger policy.
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Perhaps I should have written ‘frightening’
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Don’t know about that. It’s spooky and weird, certainly, but much worse and truly frightening things were happening in Russia at that time.
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True
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